On a fake Breguet, "yellow gold" almost never means solid 18k gold. It means a yellow gold color applied over a base metal, usually gold plating or a PVD coating on stainless steel or brass. A solid 18k case would cost close to the raw gold price on its own, so true solid gold replicas are rare, heavy, and priced far above normal catalog listings. If a seller offers a solid gold Breguet replica for the price of a plated one, the case is plated.
What the Yellow Gold Finish Usually Is
- Gold plating: a thin electroplated layer, often 0.5 to 5 microns, over steel or brass. Color matches well when new. Wears through at edges.
- PVD coating: a vapor-deposited layer, often titanium nitride tinted to a gold tone. Harder than plating, but the color reads slightly green or bronze next to real gold.
- Solid 18k gold: 75 percent gold by weight. Rare in replicas. Soft, dense, and warm in tone.
- Gold-filled or rolled gold: a bonded sheet of gold over brass. Thicker than plating. Common in vintage-style cases.
How to Check a Case Before You Buy
- Weigh the watch. A steel case with plating lands near 90 to 140 grams. A solid 18k case of the same size runs noticeably heavier.
- Inspect the lugs, crown, and caseback edge with a loupe. Plating thins there first and shows a gray or pink base underneath.
- Look at the caseback stamps. A real gold case carries a karat mark plus a maker mark. A stamp alone proves nothing.
- Hold a magnet near the case. Gold is not magnetic. A strong pull means a steel base under the finish.
- Rub an inconspicuous spot with a jeweler's cloth. Real gold keeps its color. Plating can lift or dull.
Hallmarks and the Legal Line
Stamping "18k" or a French eagle head on a case that is not solid gold is a false mark. In the United States, karat marks on jewelry and watch cases fall under FTC rules, and counterfeits shipped through the mail are subject to seizure by U.S. Customs and Border Protection. A replica sold as a genuine Breguet is a counterfeit, and that is a different act from buying a replica that is described honestly as a replica.
Care That Extends Plating Life
Keep plated cases away from perfume, sweat, and abrasive cloths. Wipe with a soft dry cloth after wear. Store the watch in a dry pouch, not loose in a drawer where it rubs against other metal. Plating on a well-kept case can hold its color for years. Once it wears through at the lugs, no polish restores it.