The top pick in this category is the 39.5 mm five color fake Omega Seamaster Olympic Games that uses a decorated automatic movement and a caseback carrying collection text and a piece number. Every other version should be measured against it on six criteria: dial color and printing, case size and profile, caseback engraving, movement and rotor finish, bracelet and clasp build, and lume behavior. Work through the checklist below before you spend money on any single example.

What the Seamaster Olympic Games Collection Actually Is

Omega has served as official timekeeper of the Olympic Games since 1932, and Olympic rings plus timekeeper wording appear on the Seamaster models built for the Games. The 2018 Seamaster Olympic Games Collection used a 39.5 mm case across five references, one for each ring color, and Omega limited each reference to 2,032 pieces. A small case, a single color accent, and a low piece count are exactly the mix that attracts counterfeiters, and they also set the bar any copy has to clear.

Criterion 1: Dial Color and Printing

The accent color is the first thing a buyer notices and the easiest place for a copy to go wrong. Compare the shade against reference photos in daylight rather than under a shop's warm LED light, which hides red and blue shifts.

Pros

• An accent shade that holds the same tone in shade and in sun points to properly matched paint or an anodized part.
• Sharp lettering, an even minute track, and centered indices suggest a dial printed with a real plate instead of a scan.
• A date window with a clean aperture and a wheel that centers the number reads correctly at arm's length.

Cons

• Orange leaning red or blue leaning purple shows up on most budget dials the moment daylight hits them.
• Thick text, fuzzy edges, or a wavy track are signs of a cheap dial blank.
• Indices misaligned at 12 or a date sitting low in its window are common on first generation copies.

Best for

Choose this level if you wear the watch to work and around people who know Omega, because the dial is what they actually see. If you plan to photograph the watch up close, wait for a correct accent shade and clean print.

Criterion 2: Case Size, Profile, and Finish

Sellers quote the case diameter, but profile matters more. A correct 39.5 mm case should have lugs that curve down toward the wrist rather than stick out straight, and a bezel edge with a defined chamfer that catches light along its length.

Pros

• Calipers reading 39.5 mm across the caseback, including the crown guards, means the shell was cut to spec.
• Downward lug curve keeps the watch flat on a 6.5 to 7.5 inch wrist.
• A crisp line between brushed flanks and polished bevels shows the case was finished in stages.

Cons

• Oversized 41 mm shells sold as 39.5 mm are common and wear larger than the reference.
• Slab sided cases with no bevel look flat on the wrist and photograph poorly.
• Polishing that washes over the brushed surfaces erases the two tone look.
• A crown that sits flush against the case instead of standing proud is a fit and finish tell.

Best for

Anyone with a wrist under 7 inches should treat case size and lug curve as the deciding factor. If you have a larger wrist and want presence, a slightly bigger shell is workable, but check that the lugs still angle down.

Criterion 3: Caseback, Engraving, and Piece Number

The caseback is where limited edition copies usually fall apart, because deep engraving costs money. Ask for a straight on photo of the back before buying, and check the depth of the lettering rather than just the wording.

Pros

• Even engraving depth across the whole back suggests a stamped or properly milled die.
• A piece number in the same format the collection used reads as a deliberate detail.
• A caseback that seats flush with no gap at the gasket is a good sign for water resistance claims.

Cons

• Shallow laser etching that fades at an angle is the most frequent giveaway.
• Generic limited edition wording or text placed in the wrong spot signals a stock part.
• Tool marks around the notches point to a caseback swapped from another model.

Best for

If you flip the watch over often, or you trade replicas with other collectors, pay for a deep engraving. If the back stays against your wrist all day, this criterion matters less than the dial.

Criterion 4: Movement and Rotor Finish

Omega fitted the collection with a Master Chronometer certified automatic, so a copy claiming that standard should at least show a signed rotor with striping and engraving. Ask the seller for movement photos, or inspect through a display back if the model has one.

Pros

• Hacking seconds and a sweep that does not stutter indicate a modern high beat movement.
• A rotor with engraved text, Geneva stripes, and circular graining reads correctly through the back.
• Smooth crown action with no grit suggests the keyless works were assembled with care.

Cons

• A bare rotor with no text or finish is the clearest sign of a budget movement.
• Stuttering sweep at low beat rates looks wrong next to the printed dial.
• Loud rotor wobble or a crown that grinds points to worn or cheap parts.

Best for

Buyers who open the caseback, service their watches, or care about timekeeping accuracy should prioritize this section. If you never look inside and the watch keeps decent time, dial and case quality will serve you better for the same money.

Criterion 5: Bracelet, Clasp, and Lume

Bracelet feel is the fastest way to spot a cheap build in the hand. Solid end links that fit the case with no rattle, plus a clasp with crisp stamped lettering and a firm detent, separate mid tier copies from entry level ones.

Pros

• Solid end links with tight tolerances keep the watch from twisting on the wrist.
• A clasp that snaps shut with a firm click and lines up flush suggests decent machining.
• Lume that charges under a phone light and fades evenly across all markers is a good sign.

Cons

• Rattling links and hollow end links feel hollow and cheap against the case.
• A stamped clasp with soft lettering wears quickly at the fold.
• Uneven lume, where one marker glows brighter than the rest, shows a rushed dial.

Best for

Daily wearers should pay for the bracelet, since it takes the most abuse and sits against skin. Collectors who swap to a leather strap can accept an average bracelet and put the money into the caseback instead.

Which Tier Fits Which Buyer

Entry tier copies make sense for casual weekend wear and for anyone testing whether the 39.5 mm size suits their wrist before spending more. Mid tier copies suit daily wear, where dial accuracy and a solid bracelet reduce the small tells you notice in a mirror. Top tier copies suit buyers who handle their watches closely, photograph them, or compare them side by side with friends, because that is the only setting where engraving depth and rotor finish are worth the premium.

Legal and Practical Notes Before You Buy

The Olympic rings and the official timekeeper marks belong to the International Olympic Committee, and US Customs and Border Protection can detain or seize imported goods that carry counterfeit trademarks. Presenting a copy as an original in a sale or trade is fraud and carries real exposure. Treat a replica as a replica: keep the order record, do not list it as genuine on any marketplace, and do not hand it to a jeweler for warranty service on Omega's name. Bought and worn that way, a fake Omega Seamaster Olympic Games is a costume piece with a well known design, not an investment.